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FS: Urban Jurgensen Ref 2 - Yellow gold with extract

Origin

Widely acknowledged as the company that brought watchmaking to Denmark, Urban Jürgensen is a family-established manufacturer launched in 1773 by Jürgen Jürgensen. The Jürgensen family had a prolific 18th and 19th century, to say the least, working closely with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. These close working relationships set the standard for fine watchmaking, standards still referenced today. Urban Jürgensen, the first son of Jürgen, continued building the family's brand, contributing to a 139-year run of Jürgensen family ownership lasting until 1912. A turmoil 20th century followed, with numerous new owners. However, in 1985, Peter Baumberger and master watchmaker English Derek Pratt joined forces to return Urban Jürgensen to its traditional and haute sensibilities. Models were created that focused on handmade production and unwavering adherence to tenets outlined by its founding fathers. Despite officially acquiring the brand in 1985, the Reference 1 Calendar Chronograph debuted under Baumberger in 1982, followed by the Reference 2 Perpetual Calendar in the early 1990s.

Introduced as a limited series, only 175 examples of the Reference 2 surfaced, 50 of which were believed to be in platinum, while the rest were rendered in gold. For the Reference 1, Baumberger used the Zenith El Primero calibre, but for the Reference 2, this was upgraded to the Frédéric Piguet calibre 71 with a Lemania-developed perpetual calendar module, pointing the brand in an elevated trajectory.

In 2021, renowned Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen led investors to acquire Urban Jürgensen and establish himself as the new CEO. The direction the brand will go now under Voutilainen's control is yet to be seen.

The Watch

While the watch world patiently waits to discover what an Urban Jürgensen looks like under Kari Voutilainen's leadership, pieces such as this rare Reference 2 have been declared to be the vision for this brand's grand return. Well, we say rare, but with only 175 examples of the model ever produced, that is somewhat a given for this traditional yet individual perpetual calendar. Rendered in 18k yellow gold, the 38mm case may be straightforwardly formed, but its presence is striking. A generously stepped bezel and petite teardrop soldered lugs contribute directly to its svelte profile and overall charm. This is an early instance of these key design cues, which still can be found in modern Urban Jürgensen creations.

The dial of this Reference 2 is where the breadth of Derek Pratt's competence is spotlighted, as its multi-finished execution pairs harmoniously with its functionality. Two chapter rings, one for the minute markers and one for the black Roman numerals, sit at the periphery of the dial, with hand-finished engine-turned clous de Paris guilloché work occupying the centre before a basket guilloché pattern occupies the two vertically stacked sub-registers. Tracking the date at six while the twelve houses the moonphase complication and two cartouches for the brand signature and serial number, this configuration is complete with wide set day and month apertures at nine and three, respectively. 

The Reference 2's pair of observatoire hands complete its appearance and represent the first time the brand used them.

The Movement

The Frédéric Piguet calibre 71 powers the Reference 2 and is a step up for the brand from the Reference 1. Used by IWC, Chopard, Breguet, Daniel Roth, and Blancpain, this ultra-slim automatic movement boasts 48 hours of autonomy and has a Lemania-developed perpetual calendar module. Baumberger secured the rights to this module at the time, underscoring the watch's noteworthiness. The movement sits behind a solid closed caseback, was adjusted to five positions, and has 35 jewels.

How It Wears

From its stepped bezel design to its teardrop lugs and wide open dial aperture, any early Urban Jürgensen, let alone the Reference 2, has a real sense of character. Immune to any notion of plagiarism, this piece at 38mm is wonderful on the wrist. That width is made all the sweeter thanks to its short lug-to-lug distance and small lugs, resulting in a charming and individual slice of neo-vintage elegance.

This is first-class Danish watchmaking sensibility.  

Condition & set

This Urban Jürgensen Reference 2 in yellow gold is complete with its original pin buckle, original alligator strap, and certificate of authenticity signed by Kari Voutilainen. The watch is in very good condition and fitted to a custom Mr Watchley Strap in Blue.

For more information visit www.mrwatchley.com - Tel/ Whatsapp 0032456135537

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