A look at the stunning new Daniel Roth Athys II

A look at the stunning new Daniel Roth Athys II
Jun 22 2008,04:26 AM

The Athys II is the Daniel Roth’s entry level timepiece and is available in white or rose gold. It is large and flat - 42 mm wide, 44 mm and 6.2 mm thick - giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. Previously it was only available with a lacquered enamel dial in discreet white.

At Basel 2008 Daniel Roth gave the Athys II a black dial with matching Roman numerals and hands. Admittedly, nothing extraordinary has been done - the dial colour has changed and that’s all. But the new black dialled rose gold Athys II is still one of my favourites of the 2008 range.

Going off on a tangent for a bit - the copper-toned numbers against the black dial found on this Athys II remind me of the Minerva Pythagore limited edition made for Timezone years ago, which old timers will remember; the colour on the Minerva was more orange though and had the fancy name of “Burnt Sienna” (actually an iron oxide pigment that is orangey in colour).

Like all other Athys watches, this watch features the distinctive 3-armed seconds hand, inspired by the seconds hand of the Daniel Roth tourbillon. To accommodate the longest arm of the seconds hand, a tiny groove needs to be cut into the case. The alternative would have been to shorten the seconds hand and shrink the seconds counter, but that would have ruin the proportions of the watch.

Rose gold is often difficult to wear due to its colour, but the Athys II works perfectly for two reasons. Although the case is big, the bezel and lugs are thin; in addition the stark black dial with the strongly contrasting numerals draw attention away from the case and towards the dial. Because of its colour combination and slimness, the Athys II can work with both formal and casual attire.

This particular piece is a prototype with a faux alligator strap; the actual production watch will look perfect with a black alligator strap with contrasting copper stitching.

The movement inside the Athys II is a Frederic Piguet cal. 151, a lepine pocket watch calibre hand-finished in the Daniel Roth manufacture in Le Sentier. The movement is well finished, but it is also beautifully designed; modern movements lack the refined curves and expansive layout of the cal. 151.

Designed in the fifties, this calibre is now largely exclusive to Daniel Roth, although other manufacturers do utilise this calibre for unique pieces and high complications. For instance the ultra-large cushion cased Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar unveiled at SIHH 2008 uses the same cal. 151 as the base movement (shown below). Its use as a base for complications is also a testament to its robust and reliable construction, hardly surprising given it’s been in production for 50 years and counting.

Audemars Piguet photos courtesy Anthony Tsai

A notable trait of this movement is that the seconds hand is actually part of the gear train, it is attached directly to the second wheel, so you can actually see it rotating in sync with the escapement. Theoretically such a movement layout is also more reliable as opposed to an indirect seconds hand, as there is less play between the gears.

And I'll leave you with a couple more images of the Athys II...

This message has been edited by SJX on 2008-06-22 06:28:02

I don't normally use the word 'stunning' with regards to . . .
Jun 22 2008,10:39 AM

. . . a watch, but in this case it's deserved. I've always been partial to rose gold cases with black dials (and brown straps, I might add), but it's rather like cooking salmon - difficult to ruin, but also painstaking to extract perfection from. DR has perfectly executed this design . . . simply exquisite. Cordially, Art

Many commented on the stunning look of the DR Athys II in red gold
Jun 22 2008,11:25 AM

at the DR event. Little details such as cuttting out a tiny slot in the case so the long hand of the secs hand can fit is awesome. Looks great on the wrist, and I wouldn't be surprised to see many PuristS considering the new Athys II as their next dress watch.

Cheers,
Anthony

Thanks for the pics, SJX. The RG Black Dial Athys II is real stunning! [nt]
Jun 22 2008,13:04 PM

No message body

I really like this watch...
Jun 22 2008,23:25 PM

and often have to stop at the window of the one DR retailer in Vienna.

As for the movement, the Piguet Cal. 15 (original name) is a personal favourite. Its ultra-flat and large. The spaces between the single bridges are quite wide and allow thus for an unobstructed view on the perlage below. Furthermore, this layout gives the impression of the bridges floating over an ocean of sparkling lights. This effect has been masterfully augmented by the fine an subtle finishing applied at DR.

One comment: as far as I know, this movement was presented first time in the 1970 year. I will check back with my F. Piguet literature, but I am pretty sure.

Best,
Magnus

Thanks for the info Magnus
Jun 23 2008,00:10 AM

You are probably right since you're more familiar with F. Piguet (and Blancpain) than I am.

- SJX

The Piguet Cal. 15 was constructed in 1976, and
Jun 24 2008,13:20 PM

sales commenced in 1978. The master watchmaker who designed it was Jaques Piguet, who four years later, together with Jean Claude Biver, revived the Blancpain company. A very significant movement, but it strikes me that a company would develop such (an ultra-flat pocket watch sized movement) back in 'dark ages' of 1976. Really odd!

Best,
Magnus

That's very interesting
Jun 24 2008,17:16 PM

It's a pity modern movements don't look like this any
more.

- SJX

Very stunning watches.
Jun 23 2008,16:00 PM

Although they are entry level, I am sure the price of entry is out of my reach anyway

One comment. I had a DR with blac dial and yellow gold hands. Given that the hands are so slim, it is actually very difficult to tell time in certain light conditions, more than I have liked. I have a feeling the rose gold/black dial and white gold/black dial will have similar difficulity. What has been youre observation?

This is much more legible
Jun 23 2008,17:00 PM

Hi John,

The dial for the Athys II is finished with a slightly textured but completely matte surface, so the hands stand out. Admittedly I did not wear the watch for an extended period of time under different light conditions, so it is possible that legibility is poor in certain environments.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2008-06-23 19:19:10

handsome watch..lovely movement [nt]
Jun 24 2008,05:46 AM

No message body

Thanks for sharing JX...
Jun 23 2008,00:24 AM

seems like my attraction to DR is slowly but surely growing. First w/ the chronograph and now this one although I would have to see if I can locate the older model you mentioned w/ the lacquer dial in WG. That might be a good one to tide me over my regret over not getting a certain WG piece with enamel dial from another watch brand

Thanks again JX and great shots BTW...

Well both the white and rose gold white lacquer dial models
Jun 23 2008,00:48 AM

are available at a location we are both familiar with. ;-)

- SJX

Oh. :) Thanks for the heads up... nt
Jun 24 2008,00:56 AM

Nice...
Jun 24 2008,01:43 AM

Thanks JX for the quick review. I think the rosegold looks best in black dial while the whitegold in white dial Nice movement no doubt but i didnt notice its the same base movement as the Audemars Piguet Beautiful watch the Athys is and i think the Athys III is even better!

Regards

A couple of shots of the Athys III for you...
Jun 24 2008,06:34 AM

SJX can you tell us more
Jun 26 2008,09:48 AM

about the numbering Daniel Roth is using.
Around the year 2000, watches were numbered per model, but when I see this number
18441, I assume they have a different numbering system these days, that I did not discover earlier.
Geo

Thanks...very beautiful watch. Makes me proud to be a DR fan =)
Jun 28 2008,01:09 AM

So how does the Papillon II wears on you?

Regards

Here's a wristshot
Jun 28 2008,01:15 AM

The best I can manage with one hand.

It wears well and sits comfortably, despite being large and so heavy.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2008-06-28 01:16:46

Man...that looks good!
Jun 28 2008,20:39 PM

Gotta let me try it one day!

Regards



By: SJX (registered) PM Posts: 3364	A look at the stunning new Daniel Roth Athys II Jun 22 2008,04:26 AM The Athys II is the Daniel Roth’s entry level timepiece and is available in white or rose gold. It is large and flat - 42 mm wide, 44 mm and 6.2 mm thick - giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. Previously it was only available with a lacquered enamel dial in discreet white. At Basel 2008 Daniel Roth gave the Athys II a black dial with matching Roman numerals and hands. Admittedly, nothing extraordinary has been done - the dial colour has changed and that’s all. But the new black dialled rose gold Athys II is still one of my favourites of the 2008 range. Going off on a tangent for a bit - the copper-toned numbers against the black dial found on this Athys II remind me of the Minerva Pythagore limited edition made for Timezone years ago, which old timers will remember; the colour on the Minerva was more orange though and had the fancy name of “Burnt Sienna” (actually an iron oxide pigment that is orangey in colour). Like all other Athys watches, this watch features the distinctive 3-armed seconds hand, inspired by the seconds hand of the Daniel Roth tourbillon. To accommodate the longest arm of the seconds hand, a tiny groove needs to be cut into the case. The alternative would have been to shorten the seconds hand and shrink the seconds counter, but that would have ruin the proportions of the watch. Rose gold is often difficult to wear due to its colour, but the Athys II works perfectly for two reasons. Although the case is big, the bezel and lugs are thin; in addition the stark black dial with the strongly contrasting numerals draw attention away from the case and towards the dial. Because of its colour combination and slimness, the Athys II can work with both formal and casual attire. This particular piece is a prototype with a faux alligator strap; the actual production watch will look perfect with a black alligator strap with contrasting copper stitching. The movement inside the Athys II is a Frederic Piguet cal. 151, a lepine pocket watch calibre hand-finished in the Daniel Roth manufacture in Le Sentier. The movement is well finished, but it is also beautifully designed; modern movements lack the refined curves and expansive layout of the cal. 151. Designed in the fifties, this calibre is now largely exclusive to Daniel Roth, although other manufacturers do utilise this calibre for unique pieces and high complications. For instance the ultra-large cushion cased Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar unveiled at SIHH 2008 uses the same cal. 151 as the base movement (shown below). Its use as a base for complications is also a testament to its robust and reliable construction, hardly surprising given it’s been in production for 50 years and counting. Audemars Piguet photos courtesy Anthony Tsai A notable trait of this movement is that the seconds hand is actually part of the gear train, it is attached directly to the second wheel, so you can actually see it rotating in sync with the escapement. Theoretically such a movement layout is also more reliable as opposed to an indirect seconds hand, as there is less play between the gears. And I'll leave you with a couple more images of the Athys II... This message has been edited by SJX on 2008-06-22 06:28:02 Respond to this post \|



By: Dr No (registered) PM Posts: 2906	I don't normally use the word 'stunning' with regards to . . . Jun 22 2008,10:39 AM . . . a watch, but in this case it's deserved. I've always been partial to rose gold cases with black dials (and brown straps, I might add), but it's rather like cooking salmon - difficult to ruin, but also painstaking to extract perfection from. DR has perfectly executed this design . . . simply exquisite. Cordially, Art Respond to this post \|



By: AnthonyTsai (registered) PM Posts: 6237	Many commented on the stunning look of the DR Athys II in red gold Jun 22 2008,11:25 AM at the DR event. Little details such as cuttting out a tiny slot in the case so the long hand of the secs hand can fit is awesome. Looks great on the wrist, and I wouldn't be surprised to see many PuristS considering the new Athys II as their next dress watch. Cheers, Anthony Respond to this post \|



By: Kong (registered) PM Posts: 1923	Thanks for the pics, SJX. The RG Black Dial Athys II is real stunning! [nt] Jun 22 2008,13:04 PM No message body Respond to this post \|



By: Magnus Bosse (registered) PM Posts: 1238	I really like this watch... Jun 22 2008,23:25 PM and often have to stop at the window of the one DR retailer in Vienna. As for the movement, the Piguet Cal. 15 (original name) is a personal favourite. Its ultra-flat and large. The spaces between the single bridges are quite wide and allow thus for an unobstructed view on the perlage below. Furthermore, this layout gives the impression of the bridges floating over an ocean of sparkling lights. This effect has been masterfully augmented by the fine an subtle finishing applied at DR. One comment: as far as I know, this movement was presented first time in the 1970 year. I will check back with my F. Piguet literature, but I am pretty sure. Best, Magnus Respond to this post \|



By: loujo (registered) PM Posts: 219	Very stunning watches. Jun 23 2008,16:00 PM Although they are entry level, I am sure the price of entry is out of my reach anyway One comment. I had a DR with blac dial and yellow gold hands. Given that the hands are so slim, it is actually very difficult to tell time in certain light conditions, more than I have liked. I have a feeling the rose gold/black dial and white gold/black dial will have similar difficulity. What has been youre observation? Respond to this post \|



By: ChristianOfDenmark (registered) PM Posts: 376	handsome watch..lovely movement [nt] Jun 24 2008,05:46 AM No message body Respond to this post \|



By: Rob (registered) PM Posts: 1210	Thanks for sharing JX... Jun 23 2008,00:24 AM seems like my attraction to DR is slowly but surely growing. First w/ the chronograph and now this one although I would have to see if I can locate the older model you mentioned w/ the lacquer dial in WG. That might be a good one to tide me over my regret over not getting a certain WG piece with enamel dial from another watch brand Thanks again JX and great shots BTW... Respond to this post \|



By: Jacky (registered) PM Posts: 3093	Nice... Jun 24 2008,01:43 AM Thanks JX for the quick review. I think the rosegold looks best in black dial while the whitegold in white dial Nice movement no doubt but i didnt notice its the same base movement as the Audemars Piguet Beautiful watch the Athys is and i think the Athys III is even better! Regards Respond to this post \|



By: Geo (registered) PM Posts: 625	SJX can you tell us more Jun 26 2008,09:48 AM about the numbering Daniel Roth is using. Around the year 2000, watches were numbered per model, but when I see this number 18441, I assume they have a different numbering system these days, that I did not discover earlier. Geo Respond to this post \|