PuristSPro's 2010 SIHH Live Reporting by Z3
A. Lange & Sohne 2010 Novelties
Instead of coming out with drastically new models (such as the case of the 31-day power reserve last year), Lange is focusing on its roots and traditional design DNA this year. According to a Lange executive, the goal is to "fill the gaps in the collection, and introduce pieces that many customers have long asked for".
This is certainly my takeaway this year. Besides the novelties, another interesting development is the introduction of a new metal "honey gold". It is a color that's somewhere between white gold and rose gold (but much closer to white gold). It will offer people who wear only white-metal watches just a "hint" of color that is very understated.
Another desirable property of the honey gold is that it is very hard. Much harder than the 750 gold alloys currently on the market, and if I recall correctly from the press conference, even harder than steel...
Fellow moderator "foversta" has done a fantastic and comprehensive report. I am just offering my perspective.
This year is the brand's 165 years anniversary and the brand pays homage to F.A. Lange, introducing the Tourbograph (50 pcs), Lange 1 Tourbillon (150 pcs), and 1815 Moonphase (265 pieces) in "honey gold"
The finishing on the movement follows the styles of the vintage Lange pocket watches. The circular grains are quite different from Lange's finishing that we typically see.
The Lange 1 Daymatic, in Pt, RG and YG (from left to right)
It has a completely new automatic movement (and I believe the first Lange with FULL SIZED rotor, made with gold, platinum rims, and spokes from copper beryllium).
It measure 39.5mm, 1mm larger than than Lange 1. Power reserve of 50 hours. The retrograde week is adjusted by the pusher on the left.
This is interesting, but having seen the beautiful proportions of Lange 1 for years, it will take some time for me to get used to having the time dial on the right-hand side...
The new 1815 Chronograph, in a slightly larger case (39.5mm). Available in WG and RG.
Richard Lange "Referenzuhr", Limited edition of 50 pieces in Platinum and 75 pieces in Rose Gold.
Measures 40.5mm
It features a second-reset botton (at 2'O clock). Pressing it would reset the sub-secondhand to 0, while the watches' internal clock still ticks.
It is useful for measuring short duration events (lasting for less than 1 minute). A natural use would be for doctors to measure a patient's pulse. (I remember Graham has made a few of these doctor's watches with second reset, named "Sprint")
Zeitwerk Luminous. A more playful version of the original, with a semi-transparent dial.
Personally speaking, I would prefer Lange to be more dressy and serious, with more metallic tones than luminova... But that's just my humble opinion.
I am leaving my favorite for last!
I present you the Saxonia Annual Calendar in WG and PG.
Now for all of us who love the proportions of the Langematik Perpetual but need to reconsider because of the cost, here is our chance! The price is roughly HALF of that of the Perpetual.
I like it quite a lot! I think the dial is much cleaner and more legible - measuring 38.5mm, a very nicely proportioned watch with very practical functions, indeed filling in a large gap in Lange's collection.
Now I will wait for the model to be introduced in honey gold=)
Just like the Perpetual, no effort is spared on the finishing.
As a side note, as I was attending the U.S. press conference, I noticed a familiar face sitting right behind me...
It's none other than the maestro Philippe Dufour!
The jovial maestro approves this year's novelties with glee=)
Hope you enjoyed the report and the photos.
Yours truly,
Jon (Z3)
This message has been edited by Z3 on 2010-01-30 15:27:48 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-02-03 20:15:49